If you’ve ever dreamed of visiting Switzerland (duh), I need to introduce you to a glorious concept: shoulder season. It’s the magical time between September and October when the weather is mild, the picturesque towns are a bit less crowded, and the vibes are autumnal as hell. And I know, you might be saying to yourself: If I’m going to go all the way to Switzerland, I’m at least going to ski the Swiss Alps or hit up a holiday market. And I hear you on that. But after city-hopping through the pretty country myself this past September, I feel confident in assuring you that shoulder season is superior. And I’m ready to prove it to you.
So here’s the deal: You’re going to want to start with Zurich. For starters, it’s pretty easy to get to from the U.S., and there are great transportation options to get you anywhere else in Switzerland. Next, you’re gonna want to make sure you hit up a small town in the mountains—Grindelwald is your best bet—for killer mountain views and some of the best fondue you’ll ever have. And finally, if you’re smart, you’ll head over to the French-speaking part of the country for some relaxation, preferably in Geneva.
I came back from this exact trip a couple of weeks ago, and it’s now my entire personality. And because, in my humble opinion, I believe that I experienced the best of everything Switzerland has to offer, I put together this gorgeous travel guide for you. Send this in the group chat and keep scrolling for an epic fall trip everyone in your hometown will be jealous of.
(Full transparency: The writer received comped accommodations, meals, and experiences during this getaway.)
GETTING THERE
Yes, Switzerland is in the middle of Europe, but it’s actually not that difficult to get to. United Airlines has several daily (non-stop!) flights from New York City (Newark Liberty International Airport, to be exact) to Zurich. I flew United Polaris for the very first time and it was an absolute game-changer for my eight-hour flight. Between the two free checked bags, Premier Access (which gives you access to the lounge), a priority check-in line, in-flight amenity kits with exclusive skincare items, and the lay-flat seats on board, I arrived in Zurich feeling fresh and ready to go.
ZURICH
STAY
Baur au Lac: I had such a lovely time at this hotel thanks to the iconic location, right in the heart of downtown Zurich. The rooms are spacious (mine had views of Lake Zurich!) and just felt European in the absolute best way possible. The property is also just steps away from Bahnhoffstrasse, aka the most expensive shopping strip in the world. Even if you aren’t in the market for some designer goods (ahem, me), just seeing all of the fancy stores in person is so freaking cool.
B2 Hotel Zurich: A hotel that used to be a brewery? Sign me up! I loved staying here because of the rich history and how much of the original brewery they preserved while still making it feel like a chic hotel. The real showstopper of this property is the library, which also doubles as the restaurant. Floor-to-ceiling bookshelves house over 33,000 books, and the space is the first thing you see when you enter the front door of the property. It’s breathtaking, and the food is unmatched. Random, but the Caesar salad here is one of the best I’ve ever had. The rooms are also great because the beds are super freaking cozy, which is just what you need when traveling internationally.
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Visit the Lindt Chocolate Factory: There’s a reason it’s the number one thing to do in Zurich, and it lives up to the hype as Switzerland’s largest chocolate museum. When you walk in, there’s a massive chocolate fountain waiting for you before you start on a self-guided audio tour of the history of chocolate in Switzerland. The best part of the tour comes toward the end, when you get to sample as many different chocolates as you want. Once you know your fave, you can head to the gift shop for exclusive Lindt swag for your (likely jealous) friends and family back home. You also leave with one Lindt truffle in each of the flavors! Tickets are only $20, and you can get there via public transportation. Pro tip: Go hungry!
Take a cruise on Lake Zurich: One thing you may not know about Switzerland is that they have gorgeous lakes all over the country, and you should definitely take a ferry across Lake Zurich while you’re here. You can choose between a 90-minute, three-hour, or four-hour cruise, and trust me, you’ll get some GREAT photo opps for the ‘gram.
Schedule in some spa time: Hürlimannbad & Spa Zürich is a must-visit here, and I can’t think of a better way to spend an afternoon than in a rooftop infinity pool with panoramic views over Zurich. The basement of the spa also has several Roman-style baths, which are basically giant hot tubs. Purchase a day pass (if you stay at B2 Hotel Zurich, you’ll get a discount!) to enjoy all the water activities.
Tasting all the chocolate at the Lindt Chocolate Factory.
View of Lake Zurich.
EAT
Marguita: Located inside Baur au Lac, this is *the* spot for Mediterranean grub in Zurich. The food is fresh, unique, and just damn good. Get the truffle gnocchi. Don’t ask questions, just do it. It’s also right on Lake Zurich, so it’s very vibey. Personally, their cocktail menu won me over. Take my advice and order the Champagne Punch, which is sweet, tart, and delish!
Restaurant Swiss Chuchi: To literally no one’s surprise, there are going to be several fondue restaurant recs on this list. And with 11 different types of melty cheese on the menu, there’s something for everyone at this place. Fun fact: It was the first fondue parlor in Old Town Zurich. Slay!
Spaghetti Factory Rosenhof: I don’t know about you, but I’m always game to try a pasta place for dinner when I’m traveling. After a day of sightseeing, there’s no better way to refuel than with a hearty plate of pesto-coated noodles. I liked this place specifically because it’s upscale but not stuffy.
GRINDELWALD
STAY
Bergwelt Grindelwald Hotel, Alpine Design Resort: If you’re looking for a cozy, cabin-esque resort in the middle of some of Switzerland’s most iconic peaks, this is the spot for you. My room had a view of the Eiger mountains with a little patio perfect for enjoying my morning coffee. Bonus: Breakfast is included in your stay, along with access to their Fire & Ice Spa. The spa came in so clutch after a long day of hiking—coming back and soaking in the outdoor jacuzzi (which also had mountain views) was just the best way to spend a lazy afternoon.
View from my room.
Fire & Ice Spa.
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Ride a mountain cart: At the top of the Grindelwald-First mountain, you’ll find an adventure park. And if you’re looking for some outdoor activities to get a taste of Switzerland’s natural beauty, this is where you’ll find ’em. You can zoom through the mountains on gondolas, zip lines, and mountain carts, or take things a little slower with a cliff walk and/or hike.
Go paragliding: For around $250, Paragliding Jungfrau offers epic views of Eiger Northface and the mountain peaks of the Jungfrau region. Flying through the air felt like a calm rollercoaster I never wanted to leave. It’s actually really hard to describe how amazing this experience was—it was the highlight of my trip! And listen, I know Switzerland is already expensive, but if you can do one thing in Grindelwald, I’d splurge here.
Visit the Ice Palace at the highest point in Europe: Okay, this hotspot (which is actually v cold) isn’t technically in Grindelwald, but it’s super easy to get to from here. And it’s exactly what it sounds like: a palace made of ice. You can walk the halls and see an impressive exhibition of ice sculptures and carvings.
Mountain carting down the mountain.
View from the Cliff Walk at Grindelwald First.
EAT
Pinte: Another fondue place, but with views of some of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Here, you can enjoy your fondue al fresco, breathing in the crisp mountain air, watching paragliders go by, and hearing cowbells chiming. You’ll feel like you’re in a storybook.
Avocado Bar: Looking for a casual place to grab a pint and soak in some scenery? Right this way. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, and the large beer selection makes it a must-visit in Grindelwald.
Barrys Restaurant: Think: Cabin vibes with an upscale Swiss menu. It’s casual enough that you can stop by after a long day of adventuring, but trendy enough that it feels like you’re trying one of the best places in town. I’m not going to lie to ya, I’m still thinking about the smoked sausage.
GENEVA
STAY
Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva: This five-star hotel, located just steps away from Lake Geneva, is officially the most beautiful hotel I’ve ever seen. Not only are you right on the water, but you can also see the snow-capped Alps off in the distance along with Old Town across the lake. The rooftop restaurant has 360-degree views overlooking the city, and the gorgeous spa features a lap pool and thermal bath. And the rooms! Not only are they huge, but the bathtubs have the perfect curve for premium relaxation (this is important, IYKYK) and the comfy bed was very difficult to get out of every morning. I also loved how they were constantly refreshing the flower displays in the lobby—it was stunning to see every time we walked in.
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Go on a sightseeing walking tour: Geneva is known for many attractions, so you can never get bored prancing around this pretty city at your own pace. I recommend walking over to the Jet d’Eau de Genève (that giant fountain that shoots up water 460 feet in the air), taking photos in front of The Flower Clock, climbing the steps at St. Pierre’s Cathedral, and then taking a rest on the World’s Longest Wooden Bench (srsly). I really enjoyed taking my time and getting to see each thing for exactly as long as I wanted without having a tour group rushing me.
Get a massage at Spa Mont Blanc: Located inside the Four Seasons, this spa has a long menu of face and body rituals that you should treat yourself to. I opted for a 50-minute massage, which was just what my tired muscles needed. The best part? After the treatment, I had access to the pool and thermal baths, which allowed me to loosen up even more.
Go on a chocolate-tasting tour: Whether you choose to do this with a guide or just want to wander around Old Town on your own, there are so many small chocolate shops that carry homemade sweets. You really can’t go wrong.
A view of the Jet d’Eau de Genève.
The pool at Spa Mont Blanc.
EAT
Il Lago: This is by far the fanciest place I ate at in Switzerland, but I really wanted my last night in the country to feel special. And boy, did it ever. From the unreal pasta to the special-edition bubbly, it was the most luxe experience. The service was also incredible: My water glass was never less than half full, they made sure I had extra crostini for my burrata, and their menu suggestions rocked my world.
Tagliolini with red shrimp and caviar.
The tiramisù.
Café du Soleil: We’ve finally arrived at my final fondue recommendation. Self-described as a “sanctuary of melted cheese and exceptional Gruyère,” this is the oldest bistro in Geneva—and they know a thing or two about melted cheese. Save some room after dinner for the Catalane crème brûlée, aka the richest dessert you’ll find on the menu, and thank me later.
Breitling Kitchen: When you’re out roaming the brick streets and find yourself craving a crisp beer and tapas, this is the place to pop into Google Maps. They only serve food after 6:40 p.m., which makes this the perfect spot for a pint and a bite before continuing on your evening. Request to sit on the front patio for some gorgeous Lake Geneva views and, of course, fabulous people-watching.
Maddie Hiatt is the senior social media editor at Cosmopolitan, where she manages social strategy for Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest. She can often be found listening to Taylor Swift, trying out new skincare products, and/or walking her dog Waffles through their favorite NYC parks. Follow her on Instagram.